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REVIEW: Vibrant night spot is a culinary gem

By Paul Brackley

LP St Andrews Street Bury ST Edmunds'Picture Mark Westley ANL-150207-082907009
LP St Andrews Street Bury ST Edmunds'Picture Mark Westley ANL-150207-082907009

One of the greatest things about LP, in the heart of Bury St Edmunds, is its changing atmosphere.

By day the mixture of rock, prog rock and jazz music is kept at an ambient hum, the vinyl poster-covered walls and tabletops illuminated by the light from the floor to ceiling windows.

Past 9.30pm, it becomes a different beast. A DJ takes up residence in the kitchen and the music is cranked up. The bar fills and the drinks flow as happy hour hits at 10pm.

However, if you want a decent pizza in Bury, this restaurant really is second to none. With the wood-fired oven in its small open kitchen turning out perfectly thin, crisp bases, and more tempting topping combinations than you can shake a stick at, even the most carbohydrate-adverse will be tempted to take a bite.

In keeping with the building’s music decor, the pizzas are all named after icons from the industry: there’s the Willie Nelson, loaded with meatballs and pepperoni on a tangy barbecue sauce base; Elvis ‘The King’, with a double helping of pepperoni and optional chillis; the Janis Joplin, a great combination of crispy pancetta, tomatoes, rocket and Caesar dressing; the Jimi Hendrix, with aromatic caribbean chicken; and even the Paul Macartney, a non-cheese pizza topped with roasted veg. With an average price of around £12, you get plenty of pizza for your money.

If pizza really doesn’t tempt you, there’s a selection of burgers – beef, pork or chicken – on soft broiche buns. The starting price for these is £7.50 or less, but you can pay to add extras like bacon, avocado, different cheeses or even a fried egg. The burger wedges - beautifully seasoned and fluffy within - are a must, as is the creamy, herby coleslaw.

LP also does a selection of tapas or mezze dishes, perfect for a light lunch or to accompany an evening drink. Choose from dough balls with garlic butter, sizzling garlic prawns, moist falafels or a number of different bruschettas.

If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, LP has a great selection of twists on classics including their supercharged version of a Mai Tai, a mango margherita with fruit puree, and seasonal fruit-spiked bellinis.


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