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Nicola Miller: Nonna’s tortas are far more than simply food - they are works of art
We’ve just returned from Puglia, a region of Italy so civilised that our breakfast table came laden with freshly baked tarts and cakes every day. Many sported a hand-written label describing them simply as ‘Nonna’s Torta’ and the nonna in question could well have been a universally revered Italian trope - the matriarch of the family- or an actual person who inspired the chef in question. As we ate one meal on the terrace of a restaurant in Ostuni, sheltered from the blistering sun by an arbour of bougainvillea, mimosa and plumbago which rose high above the white-stone alley, the patron pointed to his own nonna, who, at a good age, still turned out torta after immaculate torta six days a week, and smiled proudly. Needless to say, her tortas were works of art.
 

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